Faucet Fixture Shower

I read a "do-it-yourself" on how to fix a leaky faucet. However, I can’t find any knobs behind, under or around anywhere to shut the water off! I have a wall mounted sink with no cabinet underneath. Any idea where I could look ? Do I have to try and find the main water valve and shut the water off to the entire house??

you may have to find the main and shut it off there.

If you do, plan to install a few shutoffs behind the sink or the floor below. also, shut down the hot water heater.

I’m looking for some good, detailed instructional videos on home improvement projects, such as electrical, plumbing, ceramic tile, and drywall. I have experience with electrical, so I bought the electrical DVD from the Home Depot to check it out. I didn’t learn a thing from it! They show only a few very simple things (replacing switches, outlets, fixtures) that any idiot should be able to do. They didn’t show how to run wire, make connections, tap into an existing circuit, or anything.

Are the rest of the Home Depot videos on other trades the same way? Or are there better ones out there? My dad has a VHS electrical video from 1987, and I learned a lot more from that when I watched it a few years ago than I did with the new one from HD.

A better choice than videos are actual books. Stores like Home Depot and big box bookstores (Borders, B & N, Bargain Books) have tons of books on home renovations with lots of photos and exploded diagrams. I’ve collected them over the years and they are much more instructive than any video because you can keep each step with the pictures right in front of you as you work. And an illustration gives you much clearer information than any shot on a video.

I was already a licensed electrician when I started remodeling but I successfully taught myself to sweat copper pipe, install drainlines, frame walls, install cabinets, lay linoleum and wood floors and build counter tops using books. The Readers Digest book series is excellent. Sears used to sell an inexpensive home wiring book that was a very good all around teaching guide. I used to use it when I taught first and second year electrical apprentices as a textbook.

It has been scientifically proven that you learn and retain knowledge much better through actively engaging your brain by reading it than by passively watching video of it.

Here’s the scoop….We have a lovely bathroom light fixture with a center mount of 4". It has 3 light on the bar with the center one at the wall mount. I just bought a beautiful surface mount medicine cabinet. And now much to my dismay, the lights are not far enough out from the wall to provide the proper lighting for the mirrors on the medicine cabinet. I don’t want to replace either. So I wonder (other that recessing the medicine cabinet – yet) is there any way to find some way to extend the light fixture another 3 inches out from its present mount…??? It would be great to hear any ideas,
Thanks,
Susan (aka lavasuze)

You could build a small wood frame to mount the light bar on to bring it out an extra couple of inches. only the ends of the frame would probably show if you do it right so you could stain or paint them to match the light bar or medicine cabinet. You can also get 4" extension boxes to bring the electrical box out further if you need to do that for mounting the light bar.

I kept searching and searching for a way to fix it but I couldn’t find it. If you don’t understand my Moen Faucet at the kitchen’s sliding. It’s like loose. Here’s a picture of it because I can’t explain it right.

http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e223/DizMiguel/?action=view&current=Slidingfaucet.png

Please help ASAP

Try going on the Moen website and get a schematic for that model.

Turn off the water (both hot and cold) under the sink. Take the faucet apart. Look at the brass stem end that the the outer housing (and spigot) fit over. Is something missing, to prevent this item from sliding?

Compare your faucet parts to those on the schematic. Is anything missing? If so, go down to the hardware store and get another one. It could be as simple as an o-ring, or it could cheaper to replace the whole thing.

Good luck.

It doesn’t matter how tightly I turn the knob. If I turn it any more tightly it will break off. The shower head continues to leak plenty of water and mold builds up quickly in the bathroom because of it no matter how often I clean it. The mold is disgusting and maybe dangerous too. Sometimes the leaking stops for a few hours and then out of the blue starts back up again. THe same thing happens with the kitchen sink, but that one isn’t so bad. Is there an easy way to make this stop?

Just buy a new one.

(Live in a condo so inner wall roof vents are not an option)
Is the under-sink air-gap separator the same as the devise just mounted under the sink? Are there any faucets with these vents built in?

An Air-gap is a device used for dishwashers. The drain from the unit runs to one side and another hose goes to the drainpipe. I think you may be talking about an Air Admittance Valve (AAV) that is placed in the drainline between the trap and the wall. It requires you to cut a tee into the drainline after the trap and install as high as possible under the sink. Studor is one brand you can do a websearch on.

I just bought a home in Michigan that was foreclosed. I have since found out that the previous owners bought this property in late 2006 in the amount of $175,000. At some point the property, appraised over $200,000 while in their possession. During this time I can clearly see they have made a few updates before going into default. November 2007 the mortgage lender foreclosed and it was sold at Sheriff’s Auction to another bank for $113,000 and that bank then went through court proceedures to evict the owners by March 2008. In this time frame, the home owner completely destroyed the home by:

[ ] removing all fixtures: (toilet, sinks, lights, outlets)
[ ] cutting all the electrical wiring in numerous places (and just left the wire hanging),
[ ] destroyed the garage area and broke rafters,
[ ] taking down all the mini blinds to threw them on the garage floor,
[ ] ripped the door knobs from the doors (completely destroying the doors)
[ ] then threw the door knobs on the floor,
[ ] ripping out the baseboard heaters leaving gaping holes in the floors and walls,
[ ] sawed off all the copper plumbing, tearing out drywall to get to it.

The bank that won the auction ended up listing the home for a jaw dropping $33,000! Mr. AngryHomeOwner went through an awful lot of hard work to throw this temper tantrum after paying $175,000 just the year before and my questions are this:

IS THERE ANY ADVANTAGE WHATSOEVER for this type of temper tantrum on the house owner in default was about to vacate? Obviously he needed to vent some frustration but does he GAIN anything from this type of behavior? Obviously the bank will now get a fraction of what they paid at auction at a massive $80,000 loss from just a few months ago. Who does this financially hurt? Him or the bank? Can this guy be held financially responsible for his destruction to the now bank owned property he was living in? Does the rightful owner, the bank, have a right to go after this guy for thier loss? Or does the bank just chalk this up to a "bad investment" and the home owner gets away with this vandalism free and clear? If this is the case why would a bank (or anyone) bid on a foreclosed home at auction with this type of considerable risk?

Can anyone help me understand when the ramifications of this type of behavior would be? What would keep everyone from gutting their own homes when faced with eviction from foreclosure?

I know there are several question here to be answered but I’m at a complete loss as to why someone would do this and at what cost they face for doing such a thing….
To Oh Yea:

Yes, you are corrrect —- however this questions isn’t addressing what I have to pay for repairs. I am aware of the great bargain I stumbled upon. My question is WILL THIS GUY be held responsible by the bank for his damage he inflicted on this house and their loss because of HIS actions???
To v.b.

You say he should be sued. I think I agree but would the bank actually go though that process or just chalk it up to as loss and bad investment? Why would banks bid on foreclosure auction if people can do this and get away with it????
SIMPLIFIED QUESTION:
I guess the question really is:
if a guy was down on his luck and about to lose his home to foreclosure, what would deter him from making a few bucks by ripping out all the fixtures and copper to sell on the street? Exactly WHAT does this guy have to lose at this point?

I agree with the person who says that foreclosure laws EXPECT adult behavior but desperate times call for desperate means — this guy was either extremely ticked off or was completely desperate for some cash…. but that wouldnt explain why the senseless vandalism to the doors and electric wiring. I am just wondering what can happen to this poor schmuck for taking out his frustrations on this house!

I guess it’s anyone’s guess.
TO iluvmyson6:

You hit the head on the nail! I was speaking to a friend at work who told me that he has heard of something called "foreclosure shopping." NOt what you might think. A group of guys will cruise the "nicer" neighborhoods and look for the tell-tale orange foreclosure sticker you often see on the window or door of a vacant home. They then walk in and help themselves to whatever they need. OR strip the place and list the items on Craigslist. THIS is what has become of the American dream.

With that said. I highly doubt theives would have wasted their time unbolting miniblinds to throw on the floor or cut wires and leave them hanging.

But I hear ya! No wonder this country is in trouble….
TO Apple Pie:

What are you getting at in referance to mortgage insurance? Or did you mean Home Owners Insurance? For me to file a claim for repairs would be fraud. I purchased the property AS-IS which means I knew before I bought it that it was in a state of disrepair. HOWEVER, your parents WOULD have a claim for repairs their renter inflicted since they owned the property at the time the damage was done…. Good luck to you.

TO Oh yea:

I can empathize his sadness at having to leave his home of just over one year… but I STILL just cannot understand what would make a person DESTROY his once lovely home.

Still looking for the answer to what will the bank do to this guy who just cost them a cool $80 grand over an inmature temper tantrum?
Like many have said in their answers: It was HIS home when he destroyed it. I know that I would not allow my mortgage lender to tell me which cabinets to install or which fixtures to tear out. And they could not tell me that I cannot rip out my miniblinds and dance a little happy dance on them in the middle of my garage floor while slicing all the electrical wiring to the beat of the music.

So I guess when the bank bid on the property at sheriff’s auction, they purchased it at $113,000 AS-IS which I guess means: AS-IS = destroyed. In hopes that the guy would have left it in livable condition.

ALSO- How could the bank/legal owner PROVE that it wasn’t theives that did the damage to this home after Mr. HomeOwner vacated the property? Right?

This seems to make sense. Anyone have any other opinion on this subject? I’m surios to hear from you!

I’ve heard that a lot of people are doing this (gutting) to their homes for some profit before they are foreclosed. I saw this same problem on the news last night. I had found a gorgeous home that was in foreclosure and was selling at $95,000 but it was gutted. It all just sucks!

Want to add approx 130 sq. ft. to an existing bedroom on a pier and beam 1920′s craftsman style home. I will only be adding a tile shower, no tub and middle of the road fixtures, etc…(not fancy). This will mean adding on and will involve roof work. Any ideas what I might be looking at in terms of price for this ? Thanks !

DPY, your addition project of a bathroom and closet seems to inherently involve a lot of construction trades, from plumbing, framing to even roofing, as you indicated. In this perspective, you might want to try hiring a local remodeler (as a remodeling contractor can usually handle all trades for such an addition, and your only having to pay one contractor, will, in turn, inherently make this project a lot cheaper than it otherwise would be).

So, what you really need is to get a local home remodeler contractor to give you the local rate for this project. That way he can more accurately assess the situation. Fortunately, there are plenty of local remodeling contractors seeking to give free estimates with no obligation, and taking advantage of this is the consumer-smart way to go about finding an accurate answer to your question. It’s important that you get a local estimate and not rely on guesses found here on Yah, as a lot of factors really bear on the cost of such a project, including the following: The cost of material and labor greatly varies by location.

If you negotiate well with the contractor and he buys the materials for you, you may try to have him pass the discounted cost of the materials to you, as usually contractors get discounts (called "contractor’s discounts" / "contractor’s price") when buying from home improvement stores because of the many purchases they make as required by their jobs..

As I said, Free estimates from local remodeling contractors are the key to your success in this home improvement project of yours. Here’s a great link to a handyman site that offers free very resourceful information to assist you in determining the cost of your project, and, ultimately, selecting a local remodeling contractor in an effort to get the best deal for you:

REMODELING CONTRACTOR INFO:

http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_Free_Estimates_Remodeling_In_Gen.htm

I’m sure you’ll find the information you need, specifically the tips, useful as it relates to being treated fairly by contractors and exploring the consumer-wise approach of getting free written estimates to find the best contractor in your area.
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Source(s):
The Internet is what I use. I’m pretty knowledgeable about the Internet. I have a firm belief in helping people with what I know, including from my development of sites, such as the one cited above. Sharing really is caring, and I wish those who I help can reciprocate by sharing what they know.

I washed my coffee pot, and turned the kitchen faucet off. Two minutes later, I turn the faucet back on and I get a slow trickle. I then squeezed the spray gun and the gun had good pressure. Now I turn the faucet on and nothing comes out, but the spray gun still works great. I checked the faucet head filter and it was clean. This is a Moen faucet/spray combo that is approximately 2 years old. How could this literally happen in two minutes? Please help. I’m pretty good with tools, so I’m hoping this is an easy fix.

i would pull the faucet handle (accessto seals) & check 4 obstruction, broken stem etc.

Completely open, just a shower head and faucets that attach to the wall. I’m trying to make a locker room.

Don’t they have that in one of the expansions? Possibly University? I know I had it at one point and I didn’t download it from the internet. The expansion packs I have are: pets, night life, university, and open for business. I’m thinking it was either open for business or university. Hope this helps!